In this page are very important setting up and calibrating information to all Jabo console owners. Regardless of whether you have IL-2 Sturmovik Great Battles, Cliffs of Dover, Digital Combat Simulator (DCS) or even War Thunder: read this page first and then map your console according to special characteristics of it!
Jabo console is planned primarily for fighters and attackers but it also works good with the twin engine aircrafts. However, the consoles have only on throttle lever and one RPM lever because in almost every case both engines must give the same power for normal operation. If you only need to adjust the throttle or RPM of another (eg. damaged) engine, you can do so very easily: Select Engine 1 or 2 from the engine selection buttons and use the throttle or RPM levers to lower only the power of the damaged engine. Then you can select both engines to run again and fly with different engine powers.
The image above show in red color all the eight axis of the console that must first be calibrated according to the instructions below. To open an image to print, right-click over the picture and select Open Image in New Tab.
The switches marked with blue button numbers 01 - 64 are directly understood by IL-2 Sturmovik GB so they are only mapped with the in-game Key Mapping function like all other game controllers.
The Jabo console features also two special rotary encoders on the MJ16 circuit board, labeled with yellow button numbers 97-100 and 105-108. These two rotary encoders need to be mapped with Joystick Gremlin and vJoy for IL-2 Sturmovik games to understand them but they do not necessarily need to be implemented.
If these switches are left in the On position, they may cause errors with the other button signals in the same group!
USB cable is not included with the console. Throttle Console has an USB 2 type B connector as in this picture below. You find suitable (length) USB cable to your home cockpit from computer shops.
You must calibrate all the eight axes og the console carefully with the instructions below. It is also good to check calibration sometimes for ex. before important missions or after a long period without using it. Open Devices and Printers and select the Game Controllers Setup. Click the icon with the right mouse button and select the Game Controls from the list.
Select the throttle console from your Installed game controllers list, it can be named as KK02, MJ16 or OJ16 depending on your Windows version. Click then Properties and the Properties window is opening.
Click Settings and then Calibrate - The Game Device Calibration window opens. Click Next.
Next window asks you to "Leave the handle centered" but it means the conventional joystick's handle. With the throttle console you must center the two potentiometers which are X-axis = Rudder trim and Y-axis = Roll trim. Center both potentiometer knobs visually and roughly to the 12 o'clock position and click then Next.
In the next window tick the "Display Raw Data". Rotate both pots to full clockwise (open) and then full counter clockwise (close) couple of times. The numeric Raw Data values should be between 495 / minus 512 for both axes. After that center both pot knobs again to the Raw Data value "0" (about). Click then Next and follow the Windows instructions.
The following is Z-axis which is used as an Oil radiator (+ Outlet Cowls Shutter) in the examples. Follow the instructions and rotate the pot first full open (clockwise) and then full close (counter clockwise). Follow the Raw Data values, they should be about 495 / minus 512. Click then Next.
Calibrate the X-rotation similarly as above: The pot is next to the Z axis and it's the Water radiator (+ Inlet Cowls Shutter). Rotate it full open and full close. Follow the Raw Data values, they should be between 495 / minus 512. Calibrate similarly the two pots on the consoles long right side: Y-rotation (Mixture) an Z-rotation (Stabilizer and Elevator trim wheel). Follow the Raw Data values, they should be between 495 / minus 512.
At last calibrate Dial (big Throttle-lever): push it forward full open and then pull it backward full close. Do the same to Slider (small RPM-lever): follow the Raw Data values, they should be roughly between 430 / minus 430 or more (individual varialbe values are because they are working with small magnets and "eternal" hall sensors). Click then Next and Ready. Click OK and calibrating has done!
You can always check the calibration with the Properties -window: Move all the axes one by one and check that those red bars (and the cross in the X/Y-square) are moving smoothly from full close to full open.
Removing the trim wheel using a chisel head screwdriver as an aid. Place the risers under the console so that the pot knobs below are not damaged.
Press the trim wheel into place on it's shaft manually. Place the risers under the console so that the pot knobs below are not damaged.
Key mapping plan below is updated 8th of June 2021. To open an image to print, right-click over the picture and select Open Image in New Tab.
These game mapping example pictures are from my personal setup. Click the image icons below and scroll through them with the arrow icons on the right and left side of the images. I have used the same colors in the button numbers/texts (blue) and axes (red) as in the Axes/Buttons/Switches image at the beginning of this page so switches and axes are easier to find. Other game controllers such as the joystick have white text.
You can map your jabo console at first like me and later when you are more familiar with your console you can use some of your own mapping ideas. For ex. my mapping example buttons 27/28 are both assigned to Altimeter: preference pressure toggle. After that, it’s the same even if you move the switch in either direction.
The Jabo console has small service hatches next to the grooves of the throttle and RPM handles which are fastened with 4M hex screws. The same four screws also fasten the entire lever mechanics, so when adjusting the throttle handle, open only one screw and loosen a little another.
Then open the "service door" cover using the second screw as the "hinge" as shown. You can get more friction on the handle by turning the clear friction bolt shown in the picture clockwise with a small 7mm wrench. However, do not overtighten so that the light felt pieces do not break.
When adjusting the friction of the small RPM handle, loosen both screws next to it and remove the cover but don't open the screws on the throttle side! These friction bolts must not be overtightened to prevent damage to the friction blankets!
Inside the blue circle there is a "soft damper or stopper" that prevents the throttle lever from being at 100% power for too long: Full throttle is obtained by holding the throttle lever forward with your hand, but as soon as it is not pressed forward, it returns to about 85% combat power.
This is a simple but functional idea in the IL-2 Sturmovik GB simulator where the engine breaks too easily if you fly for too long at emergency power.
Inside the red circle is a bolt with which both levers can be locked together. See a more detailed picture and information below.
Since Luftwaffe fighters and jabos don't need an RPM lever that's under the throttle handle and thus "pointless," I came up with a handy way to lock it with a bolt: the RPM handle now moves mechanically locked with the throttle grip while comfortably stabilizing and "stiffening" both.
you can off course map an another function to the RPM handle - for example a mixture or Propeller Pitch.
But if you wish, I can bolt both levers together so that the RPM lever moves with the throttle lever and does not need any function. If you later want to use the RPM lever, simply remove the bolt and map the RPM axis to it. Opr whateverfunction you want to use!
Copyright © Ismo Homanen - Kanttorin Kone 2018
